Amsterdam in Winter — Why the Cold Season Is Underrated

Everyone comes to Amsterdam in summer. The canals, the bikes, the long evenings — I get it. But here's what nobody tells you: winter Amsterdam has something summer Amsterdam can't touch. The crowds vanish. The cafes get cozy. The lights reflect off the canals in a way that makes you stop walking and just stare.

I've lived through 8 Amsterdam winters. They're cold, they're wet, and they're genuinely beautiful if you know what to do with them.

What to Expect

Temperature: 0-7°C most days. Occasionally drops below freezing. Rarely snows (but when it does, the city looks like a painting). The cold here isn't the dry cold you might know from the American Midwest — it's a damp cold that cuts through layers. Dress accordingly.

Daylight: Short days. The sun sets around 4:30 PM in December. By 5 PM it's dark. This sounds depressing, but the city lights up — literally. The canal-side buildings glow, bridges are lit, and Amsterdam Light Festival (November through January) turns the waterways into an outdoor gallery.

Rain: Yes. Constantly. But you're packing a rain jacket anyway, right? Check our packing list if you haven't already.

What to Do

Amsterdam Light Festival (November-January) This is the big one. Artists install light sculptures along the canals and in public spaces. You can see them walking or — better — from a boat. The canal cruise versions take you through the whole route. Book ahead because they fill up, especially around Christmas and New Year's.

I walked the route last December and kept finding new pieces I'd missed. It's one of those things that makes you appreciate living here.

Ice skating When it's cold enough, outdoor rinks pop up across the city. Museumplein has the most famous one — skating in front of the Rijksmuseum with holiday lights around you is absurdly picturesque. Jaap Eden Ice Rink in Oost is where locals actually go for serious skating.

On the rare occasion that the canals freeze (it needs to stay below zero for weeks), you get schaatsen — skating on the canals themselves. It happened a few years ago and the entire city came outside. Everyone was skating to work. It was one of the most Dutch things I've ever experienced.

Brown cafes A bruine kroeg in winter is peak Amsterdam. These centuries-old bars with dark wood, candles, and low ceilings were built for cold weather. Order a beer or a jenever (Dutch gin, served room temperature in a small glass), sit near the window, watch the rain. You will not want to leave.

Check our Going Out guide for specific brown cafes. Every neighborhood has a few. Finding yours is part of the experience.

Museums without the lines Summer Rijksmuseum: 90-minute line. Winter Rijksmuseum: walk right in. Same applies to Van Gogh Museum, Anne Frank House (still needs advance booking but way easier to get slots), and basically every other museum. Winter is museum season. Browse our Things to Do guide for the ones worth your time.

Holiday markets (December) Ice Village on Museumplein has market stalls, food, drinks, and that European Christmas market atmosphere. Not the most authentic thing in the world, but on a cold evening with a mug of gluhwein it works.

Funky Xmas Market in Westergas is better — more local vendors, less generic Christmas stuff. Local designers sell their work there and the food is actually good.

Winter Eating

This is when Amsterdam food peaks. Erwtensoep (split pea soup) shows up on every cafe menu — it's thick enough to stand a spoon in and it will warm you from the inside out. Stamppot (mashed potatoes with vegetables and smoked sausage) is the ultimate Dutch comfort food and it's everywhere in winter.

Indonesian rijsttafel works year-round but feels especially right when it's cold outside. A dozen small dishes, all warm, all spiced. Find one in De Pijp.

For cozy lunch spots, look for cafes with candles in the windows. If it looks like someone's warm living room, it probably serves good food. Check our Eat & Drink guide for specific recommendations.

The Practical Part

Book accommodation with a purpose. Winter rates in Amsterdam are 30-50% lower than summer. That boutique hotel in Jordaan that costs €250 in July? Might be €140 in January. Search winter deals here — you'll be genuinely surprised at what's available.

Daylight planning matters. Start your outdoor activities early. By 4 PM the light is fading. Plan indoor things (museums, cafes, shopping) for the afternoon and evening.

Layer properly. Thermal base layer, wool sweater or fleece, waterproof outer shell. Gloves, a scarf, and a warm hat. Waterproof boots are non-negotiable — the cobblestones are slippery when wet, which is most of winter.

Why Locals Love Winter

The tourists thin out dramatically. Restaurants are easier to book. You can actually walk through Jordaan without being stuck behind a tour group. The city feels like it belongs to the people who live here again.

The light is different too. Low winter sun coming through clouds, reflecting off the canals — photographers love it. There's a reason so many Dutch painters were obsessed with light. You see it in winter.

And there's something about coming in from the cold into a warm cafe, ordering a coffee, watching the rain outside. That ritual is deeply Amsterdam. Summer visitors never get to experience it.

Should You Come in Winter?

If you want perfect weather and outdoor terrace culture: no, come in May or September. If you want fewer crowds, lower prices, a cozier version of Amsterdam, and the chance to experience the city the way locals actually live in it: absolutely. Winter Amsterdam is the real Amsterdam. It's just wearing a warmer coat.

Places mentioned in this guide

Every spot here is personally vetted — no sponsored placements.

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The Hoxton Amsterdam

Local Favorite

jordaan·boutique hotel

If you want a hotel that feels like a stylish apartment with a great lobby bar, The Hoxton is it. Book early—especially in summer.

€€

O'Donnell's Irish Pub

Local Favorite

de pijp

My buddy watches every Premier League game here with a Guinness in hand. Proper Irish pub, proper pints, and the pub grub hits different when you are homesick for comfort food.

€€

Yuan's Hot Pot

Local Favorite

de pijp

My roommate dragged our whole friend group here and now we go every month. Pick your broth, load up on fresh ingredients, and prepare for the loudest, steamiest dinner of your trip.